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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.